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costume populare romanesti, dacia, dacians, dress, eastern europe people, eastern europeans, european traditional, folk costumes, getae, moldova people, port popular romanesc, romanian people, romanians, traditional clothing, traditions
For part 2 click here
~ costume traditionale romanesti, port popular romanesc ~
Romanian peasant woman painted by Nicolae Vermont (XIX century)
For old photography click here
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Coming from self-sufficient communities, Romanians made their own clothing: the main clothing pieces were handmade and sewn by the women, while leather clothing/footwear were made by local craftsmen (meșteri). Costumes took between 1-2 years to make. The work was done mostly during winters at “sezatoare” – this was also an opportunity to socialize.
Traditional sewing differed from today’s western-style sewing which is concentrated on quick practical sewing. The fabrics were produced at home, not bought. The main fabrics were homemade cotton, wool, leather, borangic (traditional Romanian silk), hemp, linen. Lace or velvet were also used. The materials kept cool during summer and warm during winter. The clothes were colored using vegetable dye made from local plants.
Although the Romanian blouse “ia” is commercialized as the most representative Romanian garment, the traditional costumes are much more complex and varied with the basic pieces being the same throughout all the regions.
For women
- white shirt called ie
- waistcoat (pieptar, vestă)
- a white skirt called poala which is knee-length or ankle-length
- over the skirt the women put a catrincă or fotă – a piece resembling an apron but used for aesthetic reason with various colors and designs sewn on it. The fotă had either one piece worn in the front; two pieces worn in front and back; or all wrap-around skirt.
Varieties of women’s dress in Oltenia (Southern Romania)
Two-piece fotă, where two identical pieces are worn in front and back.
Wrap-around fotă. The skirts could be knee-long or ankle-long.
“Ie” or “ia” romaneasca – traditional romanian blouse decorated with local motifs which denote the region
Women’s head-wear differed from region to region – they wore a scarf or a white veil made from borangic (natural romanian silk). Like most cultures around the world, young unmarried girls left their hair uncovered – unless it was a holiday or a special celebration.
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For men – white long pants called iţari or cioareci, made from cotton or wool (depending on the season), white shirt, waistcoat (pieptar, vestă).
The shoes differed from area to area but the most common were boots – ciubote; shoes called opinci (opanak in slavic), worn since ancient times in the Balkans (see Dacian/Thracian wear); and other types of shoes made of leather.
Pieptar/ vestă din piele – men’s leather vest. Vests were made of various materials.
Pieptar/ vestă femeieasca – women’s vest. Vests were made of various materials.
Both men and women wore a waist band called brâu whose size and design varies. For women it also had an aesthetic purpose meant to underline the small feminine waist and bring fertility. In autumn, men and women wear a coat called suman, and during winter they wear a thick coat called cojoc.
Brâu sau chimir de piele – leather waist belt made for men. Men’s leather belts were usually very wide and solid.
Brâu femeiesc – women’s waist belt. They differed in colors and pattern.
Brâu popular – traditional waist belt.
Cojoc – thick winter coat.
“Cojoaca”, regional name for winter Cojoc
Woman in cojoc
Romanian women wearing “Suman”, traditional Romanian coat worn during autumn (behind them are Calusari dancers)
Suman for men (autumn coat)
Traditional sheep fur worn by shepherds during winter
Except for the white dress (poala) and the white pants (iţari) on men, the other clothing pieces almost always had intricate pattern (motifs) sewn on them.
Clothing was crucial to identify a person’s roots and show their place of origin. The clothing had various ancestral symbols (like the tree of life or sun worship) and motifs that showcased specific flowers, plants or other elements typical to a geographical region. For women, the dressing also showed their marital status (especially the headwear).
The art and craft of making traditional clothing and footwear is slowly fading with the elderly having less and less young people to pass it on. Instead, a kitsch trend is developing with fashion designers using the “traditional trend” for inspiration in poor imitations of folk clothing while the genuine craft is dying away.
Meters of homemade textiles were spread out for drying in front of each house.
Depending on the region, women’s head-coverings included a white long veil of various lengths made from borangic (romanian natural silk), or a colorful scarf with flowery motifs.
Depending on the region, women’s head-coverings included a white long veil of various lengths made from borangic (romanian natural silk), or a colorful scarf with flowery motifs.
Romanian dancers “Calusari”
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Romania Dacia 